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NatureGround >> Dead Bodies on Mount Everest


12/4/09 1:07 AM
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lookoutawhale
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Edited: 12/04/09 1:09 AM
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This is an interesting story here. I tried to find various picture that tell her story. It will be a long story but if you find these Everest stories fascinating my summary might be a cool read.

There was a woman named Francys Arsentiev (1958 - May 24, 1998) who was the first American woman to reach the summit of Everest without bottled oxygen on May 22, 1998.

She climbed Everest with her husband Sergei Arsentiev through the North Route. The North route is a more dangerous route to climb Everest than the South route.  From what ive read in the book Into Thin Air it seems people should summit no later than around 1-2pm so they can spend the hours to get down to their high before dark. (for the south route, not sure if you have to get their even earlier for the north route) Francys and her husband summited late.

It seems this the picture she took when she reached the top of Everest that day.



Since they summited late so she spent the night up high with her husband. Somehow on the climb down she became seperated from her husband. On May 23 she was found by a team from Uzbekistan in a half conscience state. They gave her oxygen and took her a bit down before their own oxygen got low and they let her climb down on her own. Her husband came back up to find her.

On May 24 a team from South Africa Ian Woodell (the same dude from into Thin Air who came back to climb 2 years after the big 1996 incident) saw her in the same spot. Basically under a place they call the first step close to the summit.



She was just in her thermal clothes. They say when someone gets hypothermia they get hot flashes that make them want to take off layer of clothing to cool off. They spent an hour trying to help her putting on her gear and walk away but it was freezing, the location was dangerous and she couldnt get up on her own. She said "please dont leave me" but they were forced to leave her up there because it was endangering their own lives.

Basicall there on the image that says "dead bodies", That where a lot of the bodies are below that first step close to the summit where oxygen is low. They call it the "death zone" That is where George Mallory died whose pics are on page 1 in 1924 and his body is stil up there. The first step is at 27890 feet. 2nd step is at27890 feet.

The death zone, in
mountaineering, refers to altitudes above a certain point where the amount of oxygen cannot sustain human life. The point is generally tagged as between 7,000 to 8,000 m (23,000 to 26,200 ft).[1] Many deaths in high-altitude mountaineering have been caused by the effects of the death zone, either directly (loss of vital functions) or indirectly (wrong decisions made under stress, physical weakening leading to accidents).



They left her and she died. Falling peacefully to her side still clipped to the fixed guide rope. Her husband's body was not found.

Next year a guy came and found her there. Francys family asked if when he was up there if he could move her body since she was still clipped to the rope and people had to walk by her body to get up. He decided to move the fixed rope that all the climbers use so they didnt have to step over her and the rope would be move to the side so she could lay in peace.

Then when people climbed Everest they could still see her body from a distance on the north route. This is the photo from how her body looked from below that first step.



there is her body below as another climber is going up Everest north route. He wrote on his blog how he passed be her. She is wearing the same blue jacket from her Everest summit picture. Climbers passed by her body for 12 years in that position. It became a fixture and a point of reference. They would state their location in reference to where her body was.  "1 hour before francys,  by francys" etc



Ian the guy that tried to help her get up when she died went to climb Everest again in 1999. He was surprised that her body was perfectly preserved in -40 tempature. He couldnt get her voice out of his head of her saying "please dont leave me" and him ditching her so he decided to raise money in an expedition he called "The Tao of Everest" where he would come back to bury her and "green boots"

They couldnt bury because of snow so they decided to slide her body with ropes off the ledge more into a crevace where people couldnt see her anymore. This is them moving her body.



They put an american flag on her body, told her a private message from her son and put a teddy bear under her arm. She was then roped over the north face where they think her husbands body might have gone.



you can read more here but it was an interesting story so i thought id give a summary with some images ive found

you read Ian's quotes of what happend here:

http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/237731/I-left-a-woman-to-die-on-Everest.html
 
12/4/09 1:08 AM
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lookoutawhale
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heres how the path from the south side looks. Still tough given the lack of oxygen but easier to get to the top than the North Summit where there is the 1,2,3 Step.


12/4/09 1:13 AM
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Fightin_Chance
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 fascinating stuff
12/4/09 1:51 AM
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Saku12
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green boots rolled over between the time of the picture and the video in the next post.
12/4/09 2:02 AM
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JoeVIP
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You couldn't drag me to the base camp.
12/4/09 10:46 AM
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gregbrady
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I wonder if below a popular climbing route if there's a stack of bodies in a crevice somewhere.
12/4/09 10:54 AM
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sadic1
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Please tell me these idiots don't actually have to piss and shit themselves to climb Everest.
12/4/09 11:01 AM
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MrSmiff
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ttt
12/4/09 11:16 AM
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Ramon Maroni
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Fuck that shit!!!
12/6/09 3:12 PM
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lookoutawhale
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supersonic - Anyone know how deep the snow is at the 2min mark of the vid above? Does it ever slide or is in basically permanant?

in the book "into thin air" the said that when you are close to the summit like that in the video, that sometimes the snow can be waist high and to tough to get through. Theres usually a certain season people go to climb as the weather is bad the rest of the time.

the summit of Everest is in the jetstream so wind blows the snow right off the top. The it gets high again and the wind blows it off again.



theres ice and rocks that fall off the top too.
12/6/09 6:51 PM
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SpiderRicco
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scott fisher

http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/fischer/graphics/fischer.jpg
12/6/09 8:44 PM
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fishluv
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 you couldn't pay me a million dollars to do that.
12/6/09 10:12 PM
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Decepticon
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Hello. I'd like you to climb 6 miles of vertcial rock. Did I mention that it's -40, covered in slippery ice and snow and you can't breathe? Also there's no fucking elevator and you have to carry your own FECES down in a bag. By the way, a fuck load of other people have done this, so it isn't exactly world breaking. p.s. go fuck yourserlf.
12/6/09 10:12 PM
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Decepticon
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Hello. I'd like you to climb 6 miles of vertcial rock. Did I mention that it's -40, covered in slippery ice and snow and you can't breathe? Also there's no fucking elevator and you have to carry your own FECES down in a bag. By the way, a fuck load of other people have done this, so it isn't exactly world breaking. p.s. go fuck yourserlf.
12/6/09 10:30 PM
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gregbrady
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Decepticon - Hello. I'd like you to climb 6 miles of vertcial rock. Did I mention that it's -40, covered in slippery ice and snow and you can't breathe? Also there's no fucking elevator and you have to carry your own FECES down in a bag. By the way, a fuck load of other people have done this, so it isn't exactly world breaking. p.s. go fuck yourserlf.


I would rather go on a leisurely hike at the base of Everest in the tropics.
12/6/09 11:44 PM
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mpthief
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Francys had fame and fortune in her eyes. shw wanted to be the first no-air assist female climber of everest.

she asked her son for his approval, and the kid, around 13 at the time, reluctantly approved because he said he knew she would never forgive him if he said no.
12/7/09 12:15 AM
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iclimb513
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Decepticon - Hello. I'd like you to climb 6 miles of vertcial rock. Did I mention that it's -40, covered in slippery ice and snow and you can't breathe? Also there's no fucking elevator and you have to carry your own FECES down in a bag. By the way, a fuck load of other people have done this, so it isn't exactly world breaking. p.s. go fuck yourserlf.


Kinda puts a couple of "tough guys" punching each other in a cage with a ref to stop them in perspective, doesn't it?
12/7/09 7:39 AM
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springfield
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 ^^^


12/7/09 7:18 PM
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caliphornia
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GPinPittsburgh - Can't the Sharpies recover them?


we've already been over this before. there is no way to get those bodies down. sorry. end of story. not happenin.

there are bodies that have been there for decades and decades. if somebody could get them down they would have done it by now
12/7/09 8:37 PM
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RJJH
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lookoutawhale - damn this Sherpa has done it 19 times. Most people cant get it done on their first.

Sherpa sets out to climb Mount Everest for 19th time

A Sherpa guide who holds the record for most climbs up Mount Everest set off on Monday on a new expedition to scale the world's highest mountain for a 19th time.

 
Appa Sherpa: Sherpa sets out to climb Mount Everest for 19th time
Nepalese Sherpa guide Appa before setting off on a new expedition to scale the world's highest mountain for a 19th time in Katmandu, Nepal Photo: AP

Appa, who like most Sherpas goes by one name, flew with his team out of the capital, Kathmandu, for the small airstrip at Lukla, from where they will trek to Everest's base camp and spend a few days acclimatising and preparing for their summit bid in May.

"Everest is not easy to climb, but after scaling the summit so many times, I am more confident and experienced," Appa said. "It should not be too difficult but I have to always be careful."

He first climbed the 29,085-foot summit in 1989 and has done so almost every year since. His closest rival is fellow Sherpa guide, Chhewang Nima, who has made 15 trips.

Appa, 48, and his fellow climbers plan to carry down loads of trash that has accumulated on the snowy slopes and educate other climbers about the negative impact that human waste has on the mountain.

"We are taking hundreds of bags that can be used to store human waste and carry them down the mountain," Appa told The Associated Press.

Appa said most climbers carry down garbage such as food packages, empty oxygen tanks and rope but leave behind human waste. He and his team plan to collect their own excrement – as well as any trash left behind by other expeditions – and bring it down the mountain as an example to others.

"The mountain is not just a god for us but the snow and ice is the source for water we drink," he said. "Leaving behind human waste is not just insulting to the mountain god but also contaminates the source of water."

Appa now lives in the United States, settling in the Salt Lake City suburb of Draper in 2006.

Like most Sherpas, he grew up in the foothills of Everest and began carrying equipment and supplies for trekkers and mountaineers at an early age.

Sherpas were mostly yak herders and traders living in the Himalayas until Nepal opened its borders to tourism in 1950. Their stamina and knowledge of the mountains makes them expert guides and porters.

Nepalese Sherpa guide Appa, 48, who holds the record for most climbs up Mount Everest waves before... Expand
(AP)


i have had the pleasure of meeting this great man. surprisingly he talks english kinda good.
12/7/09 9:34 PM
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Bry Bry
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the thing is, when i think of a trained person going to fight another trained person, i think of both of them as brave..when i think of a person trying to climb a gigantic mountain covered in ice and snow with a good possibility of dying and the only reward is saying 'i did it'..sorry but i see those people as on the 'ballsy and stupid' side...
12/7/09 10:47 PM
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Bry Bry
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'surprisingly he talks english kinda good'

ummm LOL
12/27/09 2:21 AM
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Kido777
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Just saw this new show advertised on Discovery, it's a series where people attempt to make the summit of Everest with every episode.

http://dsc.discovery.com/convergence/everestbeyond/everestbeyond.html
12/27/09 2:21 AM
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Kido777
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double post
12/27/09 2:38 AM
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Kido777
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Okay, apparently someone mentioned this show in the second post on this thread.

My bad...

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