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NatureGround >> Dead Bodies on Mount Everest


12/27/09 3:53 PM
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Captain America yanked my Woody
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Fascinating stuff, I never have really been interested in this Mountain Climbing shit until this thread.
12/27/09 4:50 PM
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The Kangaroo
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lookoutawhale, yes Everest is basically unclimbable for all but a month a year. there is a window between late April and May when the weather can be calm enough for a summit attempt. generally you only get a handful of days with optimal weather, which in turn causes a lot of problems. everyone is shooting for the same break in weather, which causes traffic jams to the top.

everest is so dangerous not because of the technical nature of the climb, but because of the process you have to go through to climb it. you spend 6 weeks acclimating and doing smaller runs up the mountain to prepare yourself. you get a brief window for a summit push, whether you are ready or not, and this feeds the risky attitudes many have where they sacrifice themselves and others in an attempt to make the top. they've spent so much time and money to get to that point that they lose common sense in what is likely their one shot to summit.

if i had to guess based on all that ive read of everest, id say 50% of the deaths on everest are directly attributed to two things, both of which are entirely avoidable.... A) lack of experience and skill (climbing at altitude) and B) ignoring weather reports and climbing in less than ideal conditions (wether  forcing a run to the top in shitty weather or refusing to adjust their schedules or turn around when the weather starts to shift)

as for aiding dying climbers its a tough situation. you are basically dying as you climb the mountain to begin with. your body starts to turn on intself and shuts down. its a slow process but theres a reason why you adhere to basic timeframes while climbing in the death zone on everest, because you are basically in a race against the clock to live. every climber has to accept that before they start the climb, that there is a very real chance of dying and a small chance that they can be rescued if they go down. you have to accept that nobody else is going to die trying to save you. at the end of the day, you may be with a group, but on the mountain you are still very much alone and your survival is largely in your own hands.

with that said its also important to understand that the amount of people on the mountain that have the skill neccesary to rescue someone at that altitude are few and far between. a fair number of people are at or beyond their personal climbing threshold on the mountain to begin with. the guides and sherpas first allegiance is to their parties. they simply cannot risk the lives of people in their expeditions  trying to assist a person that has been left for dead by another group. many guides and sherpas will make every reasonable attempt to help a person on the mountain, but their first priority is to protect their own group. this is where the commercialization of the climb comes in, where in the old days it was a handful of the best climbers in the world that met at the mountain each year and would turn around and miss the summitt if it meant trying to save a dear friend. they always had next year to summit again.  in todays everest, where members are paying guides $50,000+ to be there, their is a real pressure to summit every year and the guides have to have tunnel vision and worry solely about their own.

great thread
12/27/09 6:57 PM
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JennyCraig
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Going to read some Krakauer.
12/27/09 7:53 PM
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TSGIGOR
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 TTT
12/27/09 8:15 PM
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Kido777
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Beyond The Limit marathon on Discovery tonight!!!
12/27/09 8:45 PM
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iclimb513
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GladiatorGannon - I don't get it...why all the anger about human excrement when there have got to be animals (on the lower elevations) shitting there every day.


Big wall climbers would shit in a bag and then just
huck it off. In remote places this isn't such a big
deal, but on popular cliffs in popular places like
El Capitan in Yosemite, it got out of hand pretty
seriously. The base of the cliff started to look and
smell like a homless shelter toilet.

So now you have to bring it along, by putting the
shit in a PVC pipe bomb type of apparatus. Not
the most pleasant process, but being inconsiderate
with your logs in the outdoors requires it.

One other option was to just smear it on the wall
and let it just dry up and flake away. But again,
not such a great deal in popular spots.
12/27/09 8:50 PM
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iclimb513
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IMO there would be a significantly smaller % of deaths on Everst if
it were less popular. The traffic jams can make
shit go sideways real fast
12/27/09 11:44 PM
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Acidance
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I wonder how much climbing experience the average everest climber has?
12/27/09 11:52 PM
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Fightin_Chance
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MushroomHead - ^- Someone on my dorm floor last year, using feces, drew swastikas on the stall walls as well as "I love pussy!"

 dude who did that deserves a good kick in the teeth
12/28/09 12:16 AM
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Alex101
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Edited: 12/28/09 12:16 AM
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Just finished watching "the dark side of Everest" and damn that Cathy O'Dowd is one repulsive bitch. I hope she gets stuck there one day.
12/28/09 12:43 AM
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Momentum
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I don't get it. I guess I am just not that type of risk taker.
12/28/09 12:47 AM
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iclimb513
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MushroomHead - ^- Someone on my dorm floor last year, using feces, drew swastikas on the stall walls as well as "I love pussy!"


In my mind, I'm picturing climbers doing that, not out of humor like the guy in my dorm, but out of sheer necessity.


Lol. Fucking yuck.

Yea, up on a wall you can smear it and the sun will dry it out and rain and wind will flake it away. The problem though is on any route that sees any traffic at all, eventually someone else is going to pass that spot possibly before the process is complete.

Trying to take a dump into a bag, while dealing with your clothing and in a harness 1000+ feet in the air and complete without causing a personal biohazard condition takes a little skill. Before my first trip I practiced at home. One variable I didn't plan for was having my partner try to make me laugh and throw peanuts and other small food items at me while in mid sphincter dilation.
12/28/09 2:31 AM
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iclimb513
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^^ *He* (no homo) was, but then again that's pretty much SOP.
12/28/09 3:25 AM
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Kido777
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Alex101 - Just finished watching "the dark side of Everest" and damn that Cathy O'Dowd is one repulsive bitch. I hope she gets stuck there one day.


She'd become the stuff of Legend if so, Sherpas would tell their children her story at night to scare them into submission.
12/28/09 4:55 AM
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gatotwopointoh
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Momentum - I don't get it. I guess I am just not that type of risk taker.


You perceive it to be a big risk, but your probably do some pretty risky stuff that you don't consider risky.

Skiing for example in the northwest is fantastic, but the past two years avalanche danger has been astronomical. I remember going out one day and there were ginormous slides that had already run out, and while skiing we were setting off little slides everywhere. Now we didn't die, but you gotta think that was pretty goddamn stupid, and as soon as we did one run we should have gone home instead of skiing and risking a small but far higher than normal chance of getting buried and dying.
12/28/09 8:46 AM
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CavRyda
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great thread
12/28/09 11:36 AM
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geraldbb
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Haven't read a thread start to finish in ages, epic topic. I had no idea about this and inspired to read an research a little. Thank you OG.
12/28/09 12:03 PM
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Captain America yanked my Woody
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12/28/09 2:25 PM
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Captain America yanked my Woody
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That vid was awesome Roastbeef,


Man Italians are assholes.
12/28/09 3:18 PM
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JimmersonzGlove
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Alex101 - Just finished watching "the dark side of Everest" and damn that Cathy O'Dowd is one repulsive bitch. I hope she gets stuck there one day.

 How could you hate this face?


12/28/09 3:25 PM
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Alex101
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I hope she gets stuck there and as soon as she's gasping for her last breath someone on their way up or down just takes a piss right on her ugly f*cking face.
12/28/09 3:35 PM
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jkkazmier
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imagine the view from the top of everest. Must be incredible. Mountaineers are insane athletes and I give them all the respect in the world. Shit climbing MT washington was grueling enough for me and that mountain is only 6200' in elevation.

I know a couple of professional ice climbers and they are the toughest people I ever met. I give these people a ton of respect.
12/28/09 7:52 PM
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gregbrady
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the couple of climbers I know are huge opinionated egomaniacs.

I have a neighbor who's one and has Tibetan prayer flags all over his house and my Granpa came over and asked if my neighbor was having a yard sale LOL
12/28/09 9:38 PM
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The Kangaroo
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Acidance - I wonder how much climbing experience the average everest climber has?

The majority of them have a lot of experience. Problem is the fair majority of them do not have experience climbing at altitude, which changes the game significantly.
12/28/09 10:30 PM
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The Kangaroo
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Edited: 12/28/09 10:32 PM
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Annapurna "The Provider"



142 Summits
58 Deaths (42%)

K2 "The Savage Mountain"



Summits 305
Deaths 76 (24%)

Nanga Parbat  "Killer Mountain" "The Man Eater"



Summits 287
Deaths 64 (22%)

Kangchenjunga




Summits 209
Deaths 40 (21%)


Everest  "Goddess of the Sky"



Summits 2,561
Deaths 192 (7.5%)

Eiger (Noth Face) "Muder Wall"



64 Deaths

Baintha Brakk "The Ogre"



Fist summited in 1977 where on decent one climber broke both legs and another boke two ribs and contracted pneumonia. Was not summited again until 2001, 24 years later.




  

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