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MMA Memorabilia UnderGround >> the frequently asked questions thread


3/22/12 10:03 PM
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aces_taylor
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I think he's full of shit; I have King Kong movie poster from 1933 and I decided last month to change frames, it has been in the same frame for at least 5-6 years; when I changed frames it was absolutely fine. Phone Post
3/23/12 8:22 AM
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the chip guy
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An original 33 kong poster aces? You know those 1 sheets sell for 100k right? Phone Post
3/23/12 9:45 AM
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aces_taylor
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No mine isnt the big movie version it is a 13x27 linen sheet poster from 1933. I think it's only worth about $2k. Phone Post
3/23/12 1:42 PM
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mmagirl104
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gage949 - Has anyone kept it touching the plastic for long periods of time? <br><br>He said the plastic has acids as well and that that's why professional framers use lots of matting in front to keep the poster/art from touching the plastic,glass, acrylic. <img src="/images/phone/apple.png" alt="Phone Post" border="0" style="vertical-align:middle;"/>


Definitely no expert but I have heard this too, that plastics have acids in them just like paper and that you need to be careful when framing with plastic.
3/23/12 2:42 PM
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OnAHigherLevel
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aces_taylor - Go to michaels; they ALWAYS have their frames on a sale; usually 40% off, I bought 3 27x40 nicer frames and a 20x30 frame, and 4 acid free backing sheets for $125...not bad for 4 posters worth of frames/materials; it costs me about $35 per poster for the frame and backing. <img src="/images/phone/apple.png" alt="Phone Post" border="0" style="vertical-align:middle;"/>


The 27x40 frames at Michaels are also plastic so that wouldnt be an answer to his question. Ace is right though, they are really inexpensive.
3/23/12 2:51 PM
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OnAHigherLevel
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As i stated in other threads, there is so much different advice about framing posters its crazy. If you want to get even more technical...the plastic frames dont block UV rays which is said to fade posters. "So dont have them in direct sunlight". But even everyday light bulbs in your room give off UV rays. Is it enough to fade a poster over time....? This is just one of several different things i've heard when talking about framing. I gave up on it. Any signed or rare posters are staying in tubes and the unsigned are (This is going to hurt you to hear) are getting pinned up all around the garage.
3/23/12 5:21 PM
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the chip guy
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 Sue has this on her website (hollywoodposterframes)

The most important components of the frame job is what's in front of your piece and what is behind your piece.

Let's begin with what's in front. First off, glass is a no-no! First of all, it can break, and if that happens, often your item is scratched, torn or ruined. Glass is also a heat conductor and accelerates fading and decay. Glass has one other very negative aspect and that is moisture entrapment. Framers often recommend spacers, but then do not dissuade customers from using glass. Also, even if you use spacers, movie posters are so large that they often touch the glass anyway nearer the center, thus defeating the purpose.

Framers often recommend conservation glass that typically has UV filtering but it is still a heat conductor that accelerates yellowing and brittleing. You can also get moisture entrapment and there is still a possibility of breakage, even with conservation glass, especially with these larger sizes. Glass, of any kind, is extremely heavy for any oversize piece. Conservation glass is also extremely expensive since it is very much a specialty product. When glass breaks it can shatter or just have a clean break in half. Either way, the likelihood is high of moderate to severe damage to your poster. Often times with such a large piece of glass breaking, the top half of the glass will slide behind the bottom half and scrape the face of the poster making it extremely difficult to repair. Thus, plexiglass is the recommended covering for your movie posters and valuable paper.

I have had customers tell me they don't like the look of plexiglass: it scratches, turns yellow?, gets an opaque film over time?. This is not high grade plexiglass! Just as some people call all tissues, Kleenex, many people call all plastics, plexiglass, and it is not. There is Lucite, styrene, low grade acrylics and many other forms of plastic sheeting, most of which have no archival qualities and least of all have no UV filtering which is the most important component of plexiglass for movie poster and paper preservation purposes. Plexiglass also does not absorb dirt and grime from the air since typically it has been polished with an antistatic cream before it is installed in the frame. Actually, when polished, plexiglass will repel dirt and dust and very rarely even needs cleaning or repolishing.

Just an added note, if you currently have something framed in your home in plexiglass or any form of plastic, never use any ammonia based cleaner on it as the chemical reaction with the plastic is what causes clouding. One of the other complaints I hear about plexiglass is that it warps and gives the poster a distorted look. Again, this is typical of the lower grades of plastics that are very thin and don't lie flat in the frame. A good piece of plexiglass should be the same thickness as glass, about one eighth of an inch thick.

One other note regarding the differences between glass and plexiglass that definitely is not crucial to the preservation of the poster is that glass has a green tint to it and a good grade of plexiglass is crystal clear. Lower grades of plastics have been made with inferior materials. Remember, the most important element of framing anything you want to preserve, is that it be framed in an acid-free environment. Plexiglass with extremely high levels of UV protection, in my experience, often has a yellow tint to it and this type of plexiglass would be used on extremely valuable items and perhaps items that are hung near high exposure areas. Plexiglass is available in clear and non-glare.

For many years I've had customers who have preferred a non-glare covering for their artwork. While non-glare glass is available there are inherent problems with this product. By nature of its design, when non-glare glass is placed over the artwork, it has a tendency to dissipate color and take the art slightly out of focus, especially if you are using a mat over your artwork. Most importantly however, it is glass, and still has ALL THE NEGATIVE ASPECTS OF GLASS.

A few years back, non-glare plexiglass became available which is as near true-view perfect as you can get, while still maintaining the high quality of UV. I immediately switched all of my posters that hung in highly lit areas to this non-glare plexiglass product and have been thrilled with the look ever since. Whichever type of plexiglass you choose, clear or non-glare, as long as you select high quality material with UV filtering, you will be helping to preserve the integrity of your own collectibles.
3/24/12 8:12 PM
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hunto21
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Does it matter what type of acid free paper you use? I just bought a slab of acid free printer paper and pieced them together behind all my framed posters. Does the same thing as a full cut sheet. Except I did 10 of them for 5 bucks.
3/24/12 8:43 PM
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aces_taylor
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Speaking of framing; I was at Michaels grabbing some black acid free backing, and the guy in front of me was getting a "Raising Arizona" movie poster custom framed. It cost him $218. I couldn't believe it. Phone Post
3/25/12 1:41 AM
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gage949
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This acid free shit is keeping me up at night... Phone Post
3/25/12 2:08 AM
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RitchieGreaser
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gage contact Robert at spotlight displays. It is the only place i will get frames for my posters going forward. he is prompt and really good at answering any questions.

http://www.spotlightdisplays.com/aboutf.html

Our frames are made from the highest quality Anodized Aluminum. These frames are not something you see in regular retail stores. If you have any doubt about purchasing one of these frames, please take a moment and do some research, ask around on some of the many movie poster forums. We want you to be happy with your purchase. If for some reason you're not, you can return the frame within 14 days of receiving it for a full refund. The goal of every business should be to make the customer happy, and that is what we are all about!

- Frames that are perfect for professionally displaying any posters, info, or graphics

- Front Loading Frames that never have to come off the wall made for you in any size

- Quantities from 1 to 100,000

- Frames made to any size and can be made to hold graphics up to 1/2in. thick

- All frames are made from anodized aluminum, highest quality finishes for indoor or outdoor use

- Security and anti-tampering options available

- Frames can be used with Lightboxes, made double sided, for slat wall, grid wall, etc.

- Easy to use. Fast and cost affordable

- Inquiries are welcome



Protection:
Each frame you order comes with 2 overlays, one used for the front and one used for the back, poster will be in between. The overlays are Vivak PETG, one side of the overlay is clear and the other side is non-glare. It is your choice which side you would like to use. From the manufacturer of the overlays, they have UV Protective properties and are Acid Free. That being said, I would not place any poster of value in direct sunlight or strong indoor light for long periods of time. I have posters in our frames right now that have been there for 5 years, with some direct sunlight and indirect sunlight through out the day and I do not see any fading with the naked eye. These are inexpensive posters. I also have posters that are of value in my frames with no sunlight, direct or indirect, only house lighting. They have been in the frames for 10 years, and there is no naked eye visible damage to the posters in any way. No fading, no staining, nothing. The point I am trying to make is, these overlays are safe to use, but no sheet on the market is going to block 100% of Lighting. The great thing about our frames is you can change the posters out with ease. If you have a $100,000 poster, feel safe in displaying it for a while, but don't leave it in any frame, from anyone for long periods of time, AND NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT!!! (Overlays are only available for frame sizes up to 72" x 48")

Thickness:
Frames can be cut to accommodate different thicknesses in backings, posters, and overlays. If what you are using is going to be thicker than .100 in. you just need to let us know. We can accommodate up to .5 in.(1/2in.) with our Standard Border and .250 (1/4in.) with our Wide Border.

For our Standard Border Classic Frames the thickness breakdown is as follows. .100 to .125 | .126 to .250 | .251 to .500
3/25/12 3:01 AM
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gage949
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My number one problem is the money. Those frames are 80 each! Lol Phone Post
3/25/12 3:15 AM
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aces_taylor
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I have a decent solution for you gage; I'll post tomorrw, gotta grab some sleep. Phone Post
3/25/12 9:43 AM
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RitchieGreaser
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That is true they do cost a bit more then frames without protection, but for me i will pay a little more to have a nice display and peace of mind that my expensive posters will remain in good condition.

The price is not that far off, they give a 10% discount and the $80 frames are for the big ufc posters if you have smaller (ufc, pride ect) the cost is less as well. No worries though, I hope you find frames that work for you, it would be a shame to just leave your posters in their tubes.
3/25/12 5:09 PM
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gage949
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I know when it comes down to it I'll shell out the cash. Just hurts haha Phone Post
3/25/12 8:50 PM
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RitchieGreaser
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I hear ya. It took me a while to start protecting the stuff i get. I always wanted to but then i would think for that money i could buy this lol. In the end i am slowly buying frames for my most expensive posters and i am going to make a sick man cave in the next year or so.
3/25/12 10:56 PM
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gage949
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Ya I got 3-4 I really need to keep safe.
My babies Phone Post
3/25/12 11:08 PM
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aces_taylor
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 So let me know if this would work, Buy a piece of acid free backing (27x40), about a 1/2 inch too big for the posters, I usually get 27x39 1/2; then clip each of the 4 corners of the matting and then put that in the front of the poster(between the plastic and the poster) in each corner; The frame actually hides anyone from seeing anything in the corners and now you can have seperation between your poster and the front plastic, and the acid free backing in the back. I tried this with my rousey/tate poster and it worked just fine. Hopefully this helps you out with a cheaper solution, I want one a few of these spotlight frames, but its hard to spend $80, even though I know its worth it. If I bought an $80 frame to put one of posters in, my wife would freak out and make me put one of our stupid wedding photos in it.  
3/25/12 11:08 PM
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aces_taylor
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Edited: 03/25/12 11:09 PM
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 /
3/25/12 11:19 PM
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the chip guy
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 I've paid $200 for a frame.... $80 is cheap to me. In my experience framing stuff you get what you pay for... the spotlight frames are the best for the money imo. I still have 4 or 5 cheap frames that I need to switch out tho. it's a slow process and I don't mind taking my time doing it most of my framers are never leaving my pc.
3/25/12 11:31 PM
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aces_taylor
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 Yeah I paid around $250 to get a pair of Ali Boxing Trunks custom framed and Matted, but like you said, im ok with that, because thats never leaving my personal colllection.
3/27/12 8:52 AM
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grkblood
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 What are the sizes that Pride posters were/weren't printed on?
3/27/12 12:13 PM
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Dawggy
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Sweet idea, Aces. Phone Post
4/24/12 2:57 PM
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the chip guy
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 ttt
4/24/12 3:06 PM
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grkblood
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Joe Show Radio, Owner
 Question: Can we not sticky this thread?

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