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7/11/14 12:02 AM
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DreamerMMA
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iclimb513 - Oh Hai guiiz. What's going on in this thread? Phone Post 3.0

Pretty sure everyone was waiting for you to show.

7/11/14 12:15 AM
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iclimb513
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DreamerMMA -
iclimb513 - Oh Hai guiiz. What's going on in this thread? Phone Post 3.0

Pretty sure everyone was waiting for you to show.

I'll add what I can. But I'm in retirement now, at least for a while. I have a full time job and need a hip replacement. I haven't climbed in months.

I'll check in tomorrow from work. I'm laying in bed and the gf (who I met while out climbing, btw) is in the shower washing off teh seckz jooce. Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 1:07 AM
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JimSteele
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Jason's Stooge - 

just to start trouble...i view most traditional climbing as glorified hiking. i've climbed in street shoes up routes that these knuckleheads plug protection into. i once bouldered with a trad guy for 3 days straight...he told me at the end it was more condensed climbing than he'd done all month. at any climbing gym in the country you'll notice the difference between traditional climbers and boulderers....its like comparing crossfit to a zumba class


You're an idiot.
7/11/14 1:43 AM
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CoughSyrupOD
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I don't really see the difference between climbing and bouldering.  Isn't bouldering just free climbing for pussys? 

7/11/14 3:47 AM
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supersonic
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I like the technical talk. I am somewhat naive to much of it. Very worthwhile to discuss.

I was at Smith Rock doing a fast loop and wanted to mix in some bouldering. No pad but this area is pretty mellow. As I'm about 8-10' up and this horse fly is hammering my right calf. Fucker. Makes you do a doule check for sure. It was an easy little climb though

Other times in Bishop I've spent an hour, or an afternoon, trying to do one thng that might not get you 4' off the ground.

While I was at Smith Rock there a couple doing Monkey Face, which is a famouse spire. About 300' high I think and looks just like a monkey. They were roped up obvioussy. To get off that thing is a long repell that looked pretty baddass.




Anyways, I may now hit the rock gym this week. I think i Have a few punches left on a card from a few years ago. y
7/11/14 4:27 AM
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NinjaStar
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Jason's Stooge - 

just to start trouble...i view most traditional climbing as glorified hiking. i've climbed in street shoes up routes that these knuckleheads plug protection into. i once bouldered with a trad guy for 3 days straight...he told me at the end it was more condensed climbing than he'd done all month. at any climbing gym in the country you'll notice the difference between traditional climbers and boulderers....its like comparing crossfit to a zumba class


Yeah I don't agree with this. I've never done trad, but I know that shit is hard.

Here's a video of Daniel Woods, arguably the most accomplished boulderer around, learning how to trad climb with Alex Honnold and Matt Segal:

http://youtu.be/yd_sU8xXoFI

Woods pisses on V13 boulder problems and in it he says he struggled with relatively easy trad routes.

They're just different types of climbing.
7/11/14 4:30 AM
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NinjaStar
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iclimb513 - I don't think the pearl was originally rated / intended as a sit start. It's a 30 yr old problem. They didn't butt start back then. Phone Post 3.0

I should've been more clear. I'm doing the original line. I'm talking about the first standing move to the rail. Have yet to hit it.

But there is a sit start to it called "Pearl Necklace" which I believe is rated V6.
7/11/14 5:17 AM
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Wardance5
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Wasss up guys good thread iv been climbing years bouldering and sport i work at a climbing gym good friends with plenty of pros including the best in the world. Open to answer any questions anyone has Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 8:35 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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NinjaStar - What are your favorite bouldering shoes?

What is your favorite type of rock to climb, what areas?

How would you classify your climbing style? (i.e. dynamic/gymnastic, static/burly, finesse/balance, etc.)

Favorite pro climbers or those you model your climbing after/aspire to be like?

Proudest send? (link it from Mountain Project if possible)

Do you scream like Sharma (Psssattt!) or Ondra (AHHHHHHH!)?

- an untied pair of dragons destroy everything. have gone through at least 10+ pairs of shoes in the last 4 years or so....nothing comes close to them, at least for me

-  pretty hard to beat the basalt outcrops in CT. couldnt imagine anything more enjoyable to climb on, at least in the northeast....gneiss is a close 2nd though. and of course theres my love/hate relationship with the quartz conglomerate in the gunks. summer is a bummer there.

- would classify my style as aggressive and unrefined...i think of myself as a gumby with lots of willpower. would like to adopt a static style eventually as it just makes more sense...when im strong enough/my footwork improves enough.

- theres only one currently active climber i have a man crush on....fred nicole. the man is a visionary.

-proudest send is andrew's problem in the gunks. only v4 but i crushed it after climbing about a year and a half.  have harder sends under my belt but who cares...perfect line coming out from under a massive white roof...its got everything i look for in a boulder. crimps, slopers, then top out on jugs with some nice exposure to soak up.

-

7/11/14 8:50 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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NinjaStar - 
Jason's Stooge - 

just to start trouble...i view most traditional climbing as glorified hiking. i've climbed in street shoes up routes that these knuckleheads plug protection into. i once bouldered with a trad guy for 3 days straight...he told me at the end it was more condensed climbing than he'd done all month. at any climbing gym in the country you'll notice the difference between traditional climbers and boulderers....its like comparing crossfit to a zumba class


Yeah I don't agree with this. I've never done trad, but I know that shit is hard.

Here's a video of Daniel Woods, arguably the most accomplished boulderer around, learning how to trad climb with Alex Honnold and Matt Segal:

http://youtu.be/yd_sU8xXoFI

Woods pisses on V13 boulder problems and in it he says he struggled with relatively easy trad routes.

They're just different types of climbing.

in the northeast there is a massive rivalry between bouldering and trad. probably cause all the last gems/longstanding trad projects are being sent by pebble wrestlers. hard trad has my undying respect, above all forms of climbing. the thing is most traddies are holier than thou, comparably weak retards who struggle with old school 5.9s....decked out in $300 approach boots and dayglo parkas...find me a trad climber stronger than pringle or dave macleod...you wont. and both guys boulder as hard as anyone, in the neighborhood of v15. dedication to trad climbing will not make you strong..bouldering will.

 

 

7/11/14 9:08 AM
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clattymine
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Just picked up the climbing shoes after a four year hiatus. Bouldering is a beotch but a good one.

Just been dinking around in the gym for the last month but I'd like to get back outside.

I'm on a set of sportiva miuras, which kick the ever loving shit out of my old 5.10s. I got em when they were a fuck load cheaper than their current $170 price tag! Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 9:14 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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HongKongaBong - Jasons, I live like 5-6 hrs north of Twin Falls. Closer to some other landmarks but dont wanna give too much away to the detectives. You in Idaho or Washington by chance? Phone Post 3.0

I wish bro...im in southern NY. Some really remarkable/special places out in the NW. Would take the channel and gold bar over pretty much anywhere in the country. as for shoes...hard to get better bang for your buck than with Evolvs. Pontas and Defy are both great shoes worthy of beginners and experts alike. Peep dirtbag deals on MP: http://deals.mountainproject.com/deals/climb/Climbing-Shoes
7/11/14 9:14 AM
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OmegaPoon
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notsobigmike - Bouldering is the bomb - and WAY intense. P4P, bouldering is much more exhausting than traditional climbing or top roping.

Also, it's worth mentioning that non-catastrophic injuries are much more common in bouldering.
This! I joined a gym a few months ago and am hooked. Traditional walls are more about endurance, but bouldering is way higher intensity. It's like jogging a track vs sprinting hills. To say one is lesser means nothing, they are different beasts. Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 9:19 AM
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SoccerkickrevivaL
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So if I wanna start rock climbing I should start with boulders? Know of any good place in Oklahoma?
7/11/14 9:30 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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thickfreakness - I live in FL and because of this only have access to indoor facilities. Couple questions for you climbers

I'm looking to get into bouldering but not at the expense of my weight lifting and swimming. How physically demanding is it at first? Am I going to be too sore for 3-5 days after to lap swim or lift? Also, does indoor climbing translate well to outdoor climbing? (Indoor bouldering specifically)

Thanks dudes Phone Post 3.0

Very demanding at first...but you'll quickly acclimate. As you get used to it you'll have no trouble swimming or lifting on off days. I mess around with the kettlebell a bit during hard gym sessions. Huge fan of skullcrusher sets while waiting for finger pain/forearm pump to subside. All the top climbers these days were dedicated gym rats first and foremost. Most of them spent years inside pulling plastic before ever touching real rock. Gym climbing can make you very strong very quickly. Allows you to work until you physically can't...whereas outdoor factors like shredded skin and adrenaline dumps will limit your output for the day.
7/11/14 9:34 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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SoccerkickrevivaL - So if I wanna start rock climbing I should start with boulders? Know of any good place in Oklahoma?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oklahoma/105854466
7/11/14 10:52 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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clattymine - Just picked up the climbing shoes after a four year hiatus. Bouldering is a beotch but a good one.

Just been dinking around in the gym for the last month but I'd like to get back outside.

I'm on a set of sportiva miuras, which kick the ever loving shit out of my old 5.10s. I got em when they were a fuck load cheaper than their current $170 price tag! Phone Post 3.0

love the look of sportivas but their sale prices are laughable. fiveten for life! besides the blackwings that is...fuck those shoes. lasted less than 3 months.

7/11/14 11:44 AM
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Wardance5
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For me i love bouldering its how i started. But in all honesty i feel more accomplished climbing a hard sport route then a hard bouldering route. Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 11:52 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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thats cool man. sport climbing is rad! unfortunately theres not too much of it in the NE...if i lived near rifle or the red or something im sure i'd be just as stoked on hard sport as i am on bouldering. what gym do you work at? the spot?

7/11/14 11:58 AM
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SoccerkickrevivaL
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Jason's Stooge - 
SoccerkickrevivaL - So if I wanna start rock climbing I should start with boulders? Know of any good place in Oklahoma?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oklahoma/105854466

Thanks man! I've been to Rocktown Climbing Gym in downtown Oklahoma City when I was MUCH younger. I'm kinda trying to find some unconventional workouts. Rock climbing sounds badass.
7/11/14 12:11 PM
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ShawnTheBadger
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Faux Sho - 

So this is like rock climbing but with little to no risk since you're not climbing real mountains?   I don't get it?


that's pretty much the gist, yes. the low risk factor allows you to concentrate more on the tiny nuances of hard climbing. without bouldering...climbers would be weak. a boulderer introduced chalk to climbing. every hard move that exists on rock was done on boulders first. all the hardest climbers alive right now are boulderers first and foremost...and if not, they have still spent considerable time bouldering.

 

and get back to me on "risk factors" when you are even 10 ft off the ground without a rope and shaking like a leaf before a storm. nevermind 20 or 30 ft.

 


I am completely ignorant on this topic.

I don't see any ropes and the top of that boulder looks like 50 feet or so.

Is a "crash pad" the only protective equipment or safety device?

Because I'd want one of those giant bags that stuntmen drop onto.

7/11/14 12:51 PM
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NinjaStar
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ShawnTheBadger - 
Jason's Stooge - 
Faux Sho - 

So this is like rock climbing but with little to no risk since you're not climbing real mountains?   I don't get it?


that's pretty much the gist, yes. the low risk factor allows you to concentrate more on the tiny nuances of hard climbing. without bouldering...climbers would be weak. a boulderer introduced chalk to climbing. every hard move that exists on rock was done on boulders first. all the hardest climbers alive right now are boulderers first and foremost...and if not, they have still spent considerable time bouldering.

 

and get back to me on "risk factors" when you are even 10 ft off the ground without a rope and shaking like a leaf before a storm. nevermind 20 or 30 ft.

 


I am completely ignorant on this topic.

I don't see any ropes and the top of that boulder looks like 50 feet or so.

Is a "crash pad" the only protective equipment or safety device?

Because I'd want one of those giant bags that stuntmen drop onto.


No harness or ropes. This is called "highball bouldering". Yes, only crash pad(s) and spotters to push you onto the pad for protection. Scary as shit. Very high chance of injury if you fall. You have to be very confident in your skills in order to attempt this.

I believe that photograph is of boulderer/big wall climber Kevin Jorgeson taken in the Buttermilks in Bishop, CA if I'm not mistaken.
7/11/14 12:54 PM
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NinjaStar
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Jason's Stooge - 
NinjaStar - 
Jason's Stooge - 

just to start trouble...i view most traditional climbing as glorified hiking. i've climbed in street shoes up routes that these knuckleheads plug protection into. i once bouldered with a trad guy for 3 days straight...he told me at the end it was more condensed climbing than he'd done all month. at any climbing gym in the country you'll notice the difference between traditional climbers and boulderers....its like comparing crossfit to a zumba class


Yeah I don't agree with this. I've never done trad, but I know that shit is hard.

Here's a video of Daniel Woods, arguably the most accomplished boulderer around, learning how to trad climb with Alex Honnold and Matt Segal:

http://youtu.be/yd_sU8xXoFI

Woods pisses on V13 boulder problems and in it he says he struggled with relatively easy trad routes.

They're just different types of climbing.

in the northeast there is a massive rivalry between bouldering and trad. probably cause all the last gems/longstanding trad projects are being sent by pebble wrestlers. hard trad has my undying respect, above all forms of climbing. the thing is most traddies are holier than thou, comparably weak retards who struggle with old school 5.9s....decked out in $300 approach boots and dayglo parkas...find me a trad climber stronger than pringle or dave macleod...you wont. and both guys boulder as hard as anyone, in the neighborhood of v15. dedication to trad climbing will not make you strong..bouldering will.

 

 


I am aware of the fact that some trad climbers look down on boulderers ("you climb pebbles") and vice versa ("hardest move on your route is V3"). I just think it's silly. They're different, but both difficult and worthy pursuits.
7/11/14 1:05 PM
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ShawnTheBadger
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NinjaStar - 
ShawnTheBadger - 
Jason's Stooge - 
Faux Sho - 

So this is like rock climbing but with little to no risk since you're not climbing real mountains?   I don't get it?


that's pretty much the gist, yes. the low risk factor allows you to concentrate more on the tiny nuances of hard climbing. without bouldering...climbers would be weak. a boulderer introduced chalk to climbing. every hard move that exists on rock was done on boulders first. all the hardest climbers alive right now are boulderers first and foremost...and if not, they have still spent considerable time bouldering.

 

and get back to me on "risk factors" when you are even 10 ft off the ground without a rope and shaking like a leaf before a storm. nevermind 20 or 30 ft.

 


I am completely ignorant on this topic.

I don't see any ropes and the top of that boulder looks like 50 feet or so.

Is a "crash pad" the only protective equipment or safety device?

Because I'd want one of those giant bags that stuntmen drop onto.


No harness or ropes. This is called "highball bouldering". Yes, only crash pad(s) and spotters to push you onto the pad for protection. Scary as shit. Very high chance of injury if you fall. You have to be very confident in your skills in order to attempt this.

I believe that photograph is of boulderer/big wall climber Kevin Jorgeson taken in the Buttermilks in Bishop, CA if I'm not mistaken.

VU for education.

Alright, that is downright looney.  If that dude falls from near the top of the boulder, or even where he's at right now, those little pads ain't gonna help much.

And anybody tying to help "push" a falling climber from that height onto the crash pads is gonna break their arms or wrists at best.

I can certainly understand the adrenalin rush, you fall you're fucked.

7/11/14 1:31 PM
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Jason's Stooge
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NinjaStar - 
Jason's Stooge - 
NinjaStar - 
Jason's Stooge - 

just to start trouble...i view most traditional climbing as glorified hiking. i've climbed in street shoes up routes that these knuckleheads plug protection into. i once bouldered with a trad guy for 3 days straight...he told me at the end it was more condensed climbing than he'd done all month. at any climbing gym in the country you'll notice the difference between traditional climbers and boulderers....its like comparing crossfit to a zumba class


Yeah I don't agree with this. I've never done trad, but I know that shit is hard.

Here's a video of Daniel Woods, arguably the most accomplished boulderer around, learning how to trad climb with Alex Honnold and Matt Segal:

http://youtu.be/yd_sU8xXoFI

Woods pisses on V13 boulder problems and in it he says he struggled with relatively easy trad routes.

They're just different types of climbing.

in the northeast there is a massive rivalry between bouldering and trad. probably cause all the last gems/longstanding trad projects are being sent by pebble wrestlers. hard trad has my undying respect, above all forms of climbing. the thing is most traddies are holier than thou, comparably weak retards who struggle with old school 5.9s....decked out in $300 approach boots and dayglo parkas...find me a trad climber stronger than pringle or dave macleod...you wont. and both guys boulder as hard as anyone, in the neighborhood of v15. dedication to trad climbing will not make you strong..bouldering will.

 

 


I am aware of the fact that some trad climbers look down on boulderers ("you climb pebbles") and vice versa ("hardest move on your route is V3"). I just think it's silly. They're different, but both difficult and worthy pursuits.

totally agree for the most part. but the problem here is you're assuming that most traddies are pushing their physical limits like the pros do - theyre not, unless theyre pregnant women. come to the gunks (probably in the top 3 trad destinations in the country) and have a look for yourself. walking up a 5.4 with 50 lbs of gear slung over your shoulder has much more in common with hiking/scrambling than technical rock climbing. if i had a dollar for every 'seasoned climber' ive seen struggle with v2s in the gunks.....hoooo boy.

 

ive seen traddies toprope this rig....fuckin thing is less than 20 ft tall.

 

 

 

 

 

its also broken more ankles than any problem on the east coast. put your balls on for this legendary v1.


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