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7/11/14 1:54 PM
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NinjaStar
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I'm not assuming anything. As if every boulderer out there climbs like a pro and is crushing V10 either. So what if they're not all climbing "hard" according to you or anyone else? The point is they are climbers. The fuck do you care if they are "pushing their limits" or just having fun?

I don't know you and maybe you are a good dude, but you sound like someone who I would not enjoy climbing with. This shit is not a dick measuring contest.
7/11/14 2:03 PM
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iclimb513
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Edited: 07/11/14 2:04 PM
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I'm not going to jump onto any side in this bouldering vs trad debate.

Because in my time, I did them both quite a lot. At my best I climbed trad up to 5.11+/12- in Yosemite, etc and bouldered V8(ish). I know that sounds like nothing these days, but ~20 years ago it was at least somewhat closer to being hard to do.

I think it's good to be well rounded and anyone who just boulders or just trad climbs (or just sport climbs) is missing out. Unless the area they live in just doesn't have a lot of a certain Then, you're kind of stuck I guess.

I got lucky in that I learned to climb while living in the Sierras. Plenty of all on hand.
7/11/14 2:06 PM
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iclimb513
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NinjaStar - 
ShawnTheBadger - 
Jason's Stooge - 
Faux Sho - 

So this is like rock climbing but with little to no risk since you're not climbing real mountains?   I don't get it?


that's pretty much the gist, yes. the low risk factor allows you to concentrate more on the tiny nuances of hard climbing. without bouldering...climbers would be weak. a boulderer introduced chalk to climbing. every hard move that exists on rock was done on boulders first. all the hardest climbers alive right now are boulderers first and foremost...and if not, they have still spent considerable time bouldering.

 

and get back to me on "risk factors" when you are even 10 ft off the ground without a rope and shaking like a leaf before a storm. nevermind 20 or 30 ft.

 


I am completely ignorant on this topic.

I don't see any ropes and the top of that boulder looks like 50 feet or so.

Is a "crash pad" the only protective equipment or safety device?

Because I'd want one of those giant bags that stuntmen drop onto.


No harness or ropes. This is called "highball bouldering". Yes, only crash pad(s) and spotters to push you onto the pad for protection. Scary as shit. Very high chance of injury if you fall. You have to be very confident in your skills in order to attempt this.

I believe that photograph is of boulderer/big wall climber Kevin Jorgeson taken in the Buttermilks in Bishop, CA if I'm not mistaken.

I'm pretty sure that is KJ on "Footprints".

I used to go to the milks fairly often in the 90's. There was virtually no one out there then, and you could camp there.
7/11/14 2:09 PM
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iclimb513
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Jason's Stooge - 

iclimb513, if youre out there....a buddy of mine who lurks here topped out a scary 15+ ft v2 slab on his first or second time ever with rock shoes on. please explain to him this is pretty impressive.


That's not bad at all. Not so much the physical part... I think lots of young athletic people can climb moderate slabs straight away. But much fewer people can keep their head screwed on straight to deal with the heights right out of the gate.

Did you give him a congratulatory blowie?
7/11/14 2:11 PM
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NinjaStar
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Bouldering V8 and trad up to 5.12- is super impressive, man.

I don't think I will ever get to V8, but who cares, I still love to climb. I may have gotten started too late. I started climbing only a year and a half ago and I'm in my thirties so it's hard to keep pace with all these people in their early 20s I climb with.

Best sport/activity I've ever tried in my life.
7/11/14 2:13 PM
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iclimb513
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Jason's Stooge - 

supersonic - had crippling elbow tendonitis for the first year or two i was climbing. got to the point i'd be nauseous and hallucinating from the pain. voodoo floss bands changed everything for me. they are truly incredible and so so so worth the $30. like a deep tissue massage/ART without sapping your wallet. complete relief immediately after using it.

 

red rocks has gotta be one of the most amazing places on the planet. so jealous!

 

 


Those stupid things actually work? It relieved you of "crippling" tendonitis?!?

That sounds hard to believe. I've dealt with nasty tendonitis (tendonosis is more accurate) and the only thing that works AFAIK to actually fix the problem is working out all the imbalanced antagonist muscles that end up weak from lack of use.

p.s. I live about 5 minutes from Red Rock. You jelly? :)
7/11/14 2:16 PM
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garythekid
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Edited: 07/11/14 2:20 PM
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iclimb513 - 
Jason's Stooge - 

iclimb513, if youre out there....a buddy of mine who lurks here topped out a scary 15+ ft v2 slab on his first or second time ever with rock shoes on. please explain to him this is pretty impressive.


That's not bad at all. Not so much the physical part... I think lots of young athletic people can climb moderate slabs straight away. But much fewer people can keep their head screwed on straight to deal with the heights right out of the gate.

Did you give him a congratulatory blowie?

 

He offered, but I was sweaty and declined.  I'm a good guy like that...

 

7/11/14 2:16 PM
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BIGWHITESEXY
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LOL @ CLIMBING BOULDERS........REAL MEN POWER SNATCH THAT SHIT.

7/11/14 2:18 PM
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iclimb513
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HongKongaBong - 
iclimb513 -
NinjaStar - Also can't wait for Red Rock season to come back. I have some unfinished business there after my first trip to Kraft boulders earlier this year.

Fuck you The Pearl! lol
It's harder than it used to be. Feet are way polished now. Make sure to wait for the sun to go away too. Phone Post 3.0
Hey dude. Any advice for the newcomer? Youre like the OG climbing sensei I think. Phone Post 3.0

I'm kind of a has-been at this point. I need to have one of my hips replaced before I'll start back up again. I gave it my all for about 18 months at the age of 44 after 10 years away, until all the injuries started becoming too much.

I did manage to battle back to almost sending 5.12 again. So, maybe once I get myself fixed up, I can get back out and not be terrible.

Anyway, there's a lot of advice I could give. Not sure where to start. None of it matters much except for making sure you're solid with safety / protection / ropework if you plan on doing anything besides bouldering.
7/11/14 3:45 PM
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DreamerMMA
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iclimb513, I know you don't climb as much these days but do you still hike?

 

I just moved to Ontario, CA recently and have heard good things about hiking Red Rock Canyon and want to check it out in the fall. 

 

 

7/11/14 4:08 PM
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NinjaStar
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Wow, 13 year old phenom Ashima Shiraishi just climbed Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow (V14) in South Africa. The second female to ever tick the grade.

http://climbingnarc.com/2014/07/v13-and-v14-for-ashima-shiraishi-in-rocklands/

She also climbs 8C+/5.14c sport. Amazing.
7/11/14 4:15 PM
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JimSteele
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Jason comes across as a giant douche. There are also plenty of obnoxious trad climbers, but there seem to be more outwardly douchey boulderers. It's like the Crossfit of climbing..."your workout is our warmup" type douches. Or maybe its the East cost personality...learn from your west coast brothers and smoke some weed and don't be a jackass. Why not just do what you enjoy doing and not worry about what other people are doing?

There isn't a "best" type of climbing...people just climb what THEY enjoy climbing. You like to boulder and compare yourself to some obviously casual low-skill climber on a 5.4 route, but despite your ego, that doesn't make you a badass it just makes you sound like a tool.

I like to climb for the personal challenge and the time alone. I like alpine climbing...stuff that gets me on a big mountain away from other people. Bouldering is obviously great for strength development, but it's too much of a "yea bro, send that shit!" type of a scene for me. But I don't give a shit what people do and don't trash any type of climbing.

btw, does the gunks even have ANYTHING over 2-3 pitches in length? there's no elevation and nothing big there...
7/11/14 4:23 PM
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Wardance5
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Jason's Stooge -

thats cool man. sport climbing is rad! unfortunately theres not too much of it in the NE...if i lived near rifle or the red or something im sure i'd be just as stoked on hard sport as i am on bouldering. what gym do you work at? the spot?

I work at sender one in so cal Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 4:37 PM
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Wardance5
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NinjaStar - Wow, 13 year old phenom Ashima Shiraishi just climbed Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow (V14) in South Africa. The second female to ever tick the grade.

http://climbingnarc.com/2014/07/v13-and-v14-for-ashima-shiraishi-in-rocklands/

She also climbs 8C+/5.14c sport. Amazing.
She is a super sweet girl iv climbed with her. It's awesome watching her solve problems when she has to compensate for her height Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 5:32 PM
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iclimb513
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DreamerMMA -

iclimb513, I know you don't climb as much these days but do you still hike?

 

I just moved to Ontario, CA recently and have heard good things about hiking Red Rock Canyon and want to check it out in the fall. 

 

 

Hiking is one of the things I was having the most trouble with. When my legs would get fatigued after a long day, I'd be in bad pain, very slow and prone to falling down.

On easy terrain, it wasn't too bad, but on technical descents and especially boulder hopping or scrambling in a wash, it was getting really ugly. And all the approach hikes and hikes out here are like that. Throw in 40 lbs of gear in a pack and it was fucking me up.

But there's lots of mellow/beautiful hikes out there I can handle. Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 5:34 PM
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iclimb513
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Wardance5 -
NinjaStar - Wow, 13 year old phenom Ashima Shiraishi just climbed Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow (V14) in South Africa. The second female to ever tick the grade.

http://climbingnarc.com/2014/07/v13-and-v14-for-ashima-shiraishi-in-rocklands/

She also climbs 8C+/5.14c sport. Amazing.
She is a super sweet girl iv climbed with her. It's awesome watching her solve problems when she has to compensate for her height Phone Post 3.0
Does obe carrion still travel everywhere and coach her? Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 5:45 PM
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NinjaStar
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iclimb513 - 
Wardance5 -
NinjaStar - Wow, 13 year old phenom Ashima Shiraishi just climbed Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow (V14) in South Africa. The second female to ever tick the grade.

http://climbingnarc.com/2014/07/v13-and-v14-for-ashima-shiraishi-in-rocklands/

She also climbs 8C+/5.14c sport. Amazing.
She is a super sweet girl iv climbed with her. It's awesome watching her solve problems when she has to compensate for her height Phone Post 3.0
Does obe carrion still travel everywhere and coach her? Phone Post 3.0

No, Obe is based in SoCal now and trains youth in the area and works in design/development for Mad Rock California.

http://www.experienceredline.com/
7/11/14 5:53 PM
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HongKongaBong
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Hey dudes. Apparently the University of Idaho has a big gym and is only like an hour and a half away. Should I go there first for a while or can I get shoes and go climb small shit? Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 6:06 PM
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NinjaStar
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HongKongaBong - Hey dudes. Apparently the University of Idaho has a big gym and is only like an hour and a half away. Should I go there first for a while or can I get shoes and go climb small shit? Phone Post 3.0

Personally I started in the gym and I'm glad I did.

First off, if you have no one to guide you into climbing and you just go by yourself to boulder outside, that is going to be extremely challenging. You won't have technique and it will just be really hard because most likely you won't know what you're doing. That doesn't sound fun to me.

But if you have buddies to teach you and show you around to areas and point out boulder problems for you, then I guess that would be okay.

I still think getting confidence and skills in the gym, meeting cool people there, and then climbing outside with them is a good way to go. You are less likely to get discouraged that way if you find the initial learning process difficult. The gym allows for steady growth IMO much more than outside will.

Also it's the middle of summer. It's fucking hot to go outside (at least here in SoCal).
7/11/14 6:12 PM
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HongKongaBong
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NinjaStar -
HongKongaBong - Hey dudes. Apparently the University of Idaho has a big gym and is only like an hour and a half away. Should I go there first for a while or can I get shoes and go climb small shit? Phone Post 3.0

Personally I started in the gym and I'm glad I did.

First off, if you have no one to guide you into climbing and you just go by yourself to boulder outside, that is going to be extremely challenging. You won't have technique and it will just be really hard because most likely you won't know what you're doing. That doesn't sound fun to me.

But if you have buddies to teach you and show you around to areas and point out boulder problems for you, then I guess that would be okay.

I still think getting confidence and skills in the gym, meeting cool people there, and then climbing outside with them is a good way to go. You are less likely to get discouraged that way if you find the initial learning process difficult. The gym allows for steady growth IMO much more than outside will.

Also it's the middle of summer. It's fucking hot to go outside (at least here in SoCal).
Thanks again. Not sure how many vote ups I get and all but I tried to vote ya up again. Phone Post 3.0
7/11/14 6:24 PM
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Wardance5
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iclimb513 -
Wardance5 -
NinjaStar - Wow, 13 year old phenom Ashima Shiraishi just climbed Fred Nicole's Golden Shadow (V14) in South Africa. The second female to ever tick the grade.

http://climbingnarc.com/2014/07/v13-and-v14-for-ashima-shiraishi-in-rocklands/

She also climbs 8C+/5.14c sport. Amazing.
She is a super sweet girl iv climbed with her. It's awesome watching her solve problems when she has to compensate for her height Phone Post 3.0
Does obe carrion still travel everywhere and coach her? Phone Post 3.0
Na obe moves around a lot more now he was actually in with chris a couple weeks ago climbing. Phone Post 3.0
7/13/14 8:27 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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iclimb513 - 
Jason's Stooge - 

supersonic - had crippling elbow tendonitis for the first year or two i was climbing. got to the point i'd be nauseous and hallucinating from the pain. voodoo floss bands changed everything for me. they are truly incredible and so so so worth the $30. like a deep tissue massage/ART without sapping your wallet. complete relief immediately after using it.

 

red rocks has gotta be one of the most amazing places on the planet. so jealous!

 

 


Those stupid things actually work? It relieved you of "crippling" tendonitis?!?

That sounds hard to believe. I've dealt with nasty tendonitis (tendonosis is more accurate) and the only thing that works AFAIK to actually fix the problem is working out all the imbalanced antagonist muscles that end up weak from lack of use.

p.s. I live about 5 minutes from Red Rock. You jelly? :)

fuck you! dude im forced to climb decomposing granite and slippery gunks pebbles...so yes you fuck...lol. as far as the voodoo straps - they set off my bullshit alarm too, but they are pretty much the only reason im still climbing at the moment, and not taking yet another entire summer off cause of tendonitis.

 

crippling is the only way to describe it. suffered from bicep tendonitis (from manual labor) for years on and off before i ever tried climbing. started climbing at 28 yrs old, 220 lbs with skinny arms and a diesel beer gut. safe to say my pain levels would have forced most guys to quit. it was so bad i couldnt work out my antagonist muscles properly - trying to do dips and pushups aggravated my arms to the point that my head would get swimmy.

talked about it with another big dude from the gym who had amazing results with ART..painful massages that leave bruises and shear the muscles/ break up all the nastiness that happens to imbalanced arms..that worked wonders for me, but $80 sessions had me looking for an alternative.

fast forward to last year, talking to my bro in law,  a crossfit trainer that swears by ART...told me about these straps, which basically do the same thing to the muscle....they are fucking amazing. at 200 lbs, bouldering v7-v8 in my first few years of climbing - bicep pain was so constant i couldnt hold a cup of coffee at work. the last few months have been using these things, for the first time since i started climbing my arms are completely pain free (and i dont even keep up with antagonist exercises like i should, basically just do ring dips once in a while)...now if only they worked for pulley strains....

7/13/14 9:32 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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JimSteele - Jason comes across as a giant douche. There are also plenty of obnoxious trad climbers, but there seem to be more outwardly douchey boulderers. It's like the Crossfit of climbing..."your workout is our warmup" type douches. Or maybe its the East cost personality...learn from your west coast brothers and smoke some weed and don't be a jackass. Why not just do what you enjoy doing and not worry about what other people are doing?

There isn't a "best" type of climbing...people just climb what THEY enjoy climbing. You like to boulder and compare yourself to some obviously casual low-skill climber on a 5.4 route, but despite your ego, that doesn't make you a badass it just makes you sound like a tool.

I like to climb for the personal challenge and the time alone. I like alpine climbing...stuff that gets me on a big mountain away from other people. Bouldering is obviously great for strength development, but it's too much of a "yea bro, send that shit!" type of a scene for me. But I don't give a shit what people do and don't trash any type of climbing.

btw, does the gunks even have ANYTHING over 2-3 pitches in length? there's no elevation and nothing big there...

bro stop being a size queen. unless your home crag is el cap, and you've climbed in chamonix. the walls in the gunks rival any ive seen in magazines. plus its some of the most bullet rock in the country, and the conglomerate forms lots of cool holds and massive roofs. its a world destination for sure - on any given climbing day you will hear lots of babbling in strange languages.

 youre right about 2 things however - 1, i am a giant douche. and 2, i also hate the faux positive "yeah bro" attitude that is so predominant in bouldering. personally hate climbing with any large groups. much prefer intimate settings with people i know are real. more than anything i prefer climbing alone. the moments of clarity that come while bleeding and out of breath in the middle of the woods are second to none for me.

7/13/14 9:57 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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Edited: 07/13/14 10:20 AM
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NinjaStar - I'm not assuming anything. As if every boulderer out there climbs like a pro and is crushing V10 either. So what if they're not all climbing "hard" according to you or anyone else? The point is they are climbers. The fuck do you care if they are "pushing their limits" or just having fun?

I don't know you and maybe you are a good dude, but you sound like someone who I would not enjoy climbing with. This shit is not a dick measuring contest.

 

v10 is nowhere near pro territory. i am a product of my environment - go boulder near a popular trad destination and you will quickly adopt a defensive attitude. have feeble older men tell you "you should take up caving" and "i prefer not to boulder with a pad" and when youre done laughing you will probably have an abrasive response for them. in reality most people are not climbing hard on trad gear - and the weaker they are, the more likely it is that they look down on bouldering. and whether anyone admits it or not, whether they realize it subconsciously or are totally aware - climbing is very much a dick measuring contest. if it wasnt, it wouldnt sting when your buddy crushes your project. if it wasnt at least *somewhat* about primitive one-upmanship...standards would never get pushed. nobody would have been interested in trying the futuristic testpieces put up by john gill and fred nicole. 5.10 would still be considered impossible.

 

is being a defensive dick an east coast thing? maybe. i do have to drive through the highest crime area in NY state several times a week on my way to the crag. more than once ive had to punch someone in the face on my way to go climbing, which is obviously the last thing you want to do as it mentally/spiritually puts you in the wrong place.

and yes, you probably would not like climbing with me - im 190 lbs and most of my partners have trouble spotting me and not getting knocked around. im also crushing v8 and flashing v5/6, and believe very strongly in the power of negative thinking. i absolutely will not let you fall off your project without calling you a weak faggot.

 

edit - and just to stir the pot further - not really impressed by ashima, she's like 40 lbs. she used to go to my old gym. ive seen her palm footchips and then hand/foot match them. 1/4 pad crimps are like massive jugs for her tiny fingers. was way more impressed by the 300 lb puerto rican guy that fought for 2 hours to finish a v0. feet kept slipping but he never let go until his arms would just totally fail. rinse and repeat 50x until he finished it finally. told him he had tenacity that most people simply cannot fathom, let alone muster.

the most interesting part about watching little kids climb? they will fucking hike tough crimpy problems like nothing. have seen tons of them climb v9 and harder. put them on a compression problem, or anything with slopers, watch them flail like gumbies with socks in their shoes. ashima cries when she doesnt send, its fuckin sickening. and her father is a dyed blonde freaky japanese weirdo who probably puts an insane amount of pressure on her to do so well. will be interesting to see if she even grows into a full sized adult. i doubt it, her dad probably already has her paranoid about what she eats. from what i understand she has a crazy over-burdened schedule, like most people with traditional japanese parents. i actually feel bad for her.

7/13/14 10:41 AM
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Jason's Stooge
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HongKongaBong - Hey dudes. Apparently the University of Idaho has a big gym and is only like an hour and a half away. Should I go there first for a while or can I get shoes and go climb small shit? Phone Post 3.0

do whatever your heart tells you. personally had no interest (at first) to do anything besides boulder by myself outdoors. wasnt interested in pushing grades or anything, just wanted to climb on short rocks outside. climbed outside for 3+ months by myself, without a pad. given, most of these things were less than 10 ft tall and v0 or easier. the first thing i ever climbed, ever, was the first thing i saw in the woods wher ei knew there were established problems. a short ramp looking thing. just steep enough that i couldnt do it in street shoes. ran to the top of it and just sat down, fucking stunned at all the feelings and emotions coursing through me.

after 3 or so months winter hit hard...bought a gym membership and a cheap pad. realized i should probably take my socks out of my climbing shoes. it all took off from there.


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